Supertrain

A capitalised title to one of my blog posts; unusual for me. Capitalisation is formal and symbolises importance. Supertrain IS important, though. It is simply the best show of its kind in Canada. What kind? It's a model railway show. This is a big deal? Yes, because it's

a model railway show, 

not 

a toy train show.

True, I have not been to every single show in the Great White North to make this comparison irrefutable, but I can form an opinion based on experience and observation. The cities of Toronto, Ottawa, and Kingston are the major centres I've visited to take in their events - and a good number of smaller locales, of course. From hotel lobbies to trade-show complexes to agricultural barns, I've paced over hard concrete and drab carpet. Until Supertrain, I held firm in the belief that Canadian shows all shared the same damning descriptor - they were "average".

Of course there are always bright sparks - certain spectacular models on display, certain engaging and informative clinics presented, certain captivating layouts revealed. But the overall sense of each show remains somehow less than it could be.

Supertrain 2012 was a well organised, well presented, and well attended show. Four soccer fields worth of it. Was it as big as the Amherst show in Springfield, MA? No. Does it need to be? No. Supertrain was advertised on the radio, had 19 huge banner ads hanging from highway overpasses around the city, and sported a crew of dedicated friends-of-the-hobby working tirelessly to ensure its success. Modellers and/or displays came from Alberta, British Columbia, Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Ontario, and Washington state to my personal knowledge. There were probably others I missed meeting...

Free clinics introducing various aspects of the hobby to newcomers ran for several hours on both days. Many live demos of techniques were going on nearby, such as making trees, weathering, structure building, super-detailing rolling stock and so on. A large area was set aside for kids to play with trains, Lego and other appropriate amusements. Members of the South Bank Short Lines group assisted many children in assembling their own cardstock structures; a station and an engine shed.

A wide array of layouts were on display, ranging from efforts by young children and families to large clubs. A great selection of manufacturers and vendors from around Canada and the US were also present, with staples like Athearn, Soundtraxx, Bowser, and Badger showing their wares.

How can a city of 1M people put on a show that attracts nearly 15,000 visitors while a city with nearly 2.6M at the core and another 4M in close proximity can only manage 20% of that attendance? How is it that there are nearly 3,500 active model railroaders in that same small city? I'll put it down to the efforts of the Calgary Model Railway Society. The people from the CMRS, local operating crews, and associated club members that I met before, during, and after the show were all enthusiastic and willing to share their time and knowledge. Despite many of them having home layouts and regular operating sessions that demand their time and attention, they understand the value of positively presented public events and the associated efforts necessary to make them happen.

Thanks, Supertrain, for changing my mind.

plate progress

The sector plate is progressing. See the sector cut and cork down on Trevor's blog. Still to go is the crank mechanism. I'll need a bit more thinking time to sort out the details.

We are also going to add a flip-down tray to extend the plate deck. This will allow a locomotive cassette to slide around on the deck to reduce handling of the engines. The reason this extension has to be a flip-up-down is so that it doesn't block the lid of the nearby chest freezer.

approaching sector four

The sector plate is taking shape on the Port Rowan layout. We were able to install the supports, cut the MDF deck, secure it to the supports and align the plate with the approach track.

The pivot point needs to be drilled, and the bushings installed in the MDF plate and deck. This will happen next week at our upcoming work session. Once the hole is drilled, we can use a jig saw to cut a curve on the end of the sector plate itself.

Almost 100% certain how the sector plate will be driven. A threaded rod and handle will move a follower pin under the plate, driving the plate to align 1 of 4 tracks. I just need to locate an appropriate anti-backlash nut to make it happen smoothly.

stop and go

The bead spinner sits idle. Did it work? Oh yes, it threw them everywhere with verve and gusto. Is it quiet? Yes, can barely detect that it's running. Is it user-friendly? No, it needs a speed control and some guards for the moving parts. Another project on hold for the moment.

On the railroad front, the trestle bents were all assembled during the last work session. Making a jig sped things up and ensured consistent results. I'd do it differently were I to do it again; making some refinements to the jig to aid cutting of the pilings, etc. The trestle looks great and there will be a riverbed raising party soon to match it all to the height of the pilings. See the progress at the Lynn Valley Trestle entry on Trevor's blog.

write right rite

Having taken the time to write out all of the requirements for this project in order to illustrate a point, I noted that I had failed to take care of several of the sub-tasks. I would have noticed this when it came time for assembly, however it's always nice to be able to check things off in turn as you progress through any project. The corporate world makes a big fuss over celebrating milestones - I think that people need to do the same in their personal lives. Rejoice in success, however small.

The point is, taking the time to visualise and document the task you are about to undertake can go a long way towards ensuring a successful outcome. Imagine each step of the process before you start the actual work. Note which tools and materials you will need before you set foot in your workshop. Cutting down the number of trips to the store and reducing wasted material are both good things. The exercise of planning it all out in your head will probably reduce your frustration level when the work is being done, too.

the fear of all sums

It's easy to envision a basement filling, model railway empire. One that spans the limits of your imagination, with hundreds of turnouts, and hundreds (or more) of pieces of equipment rolling over the rails.

It's also easy to overlook the work involved in building such an empire, and maintaining the behemoth once it's brought to life.

An example is the eight (only eight?) turnout controls for the Port Rowan project. Admittedly, it's a little more complicated than some methods, but it's still small potatoes, right?
Let's add up a few points:

several hundred wooden ties to layout, glue, sand and stain
8 complete turnouts worth of parts to cut, solder, test fit and hand spike (no small job!)
8 slots to cut through the roadbed to pass the throw rod
8 pieces of brass tube to cut to length, cross-drill and lap
8 pieces of larger brass tube to cut, deburr, lap, and press fit
8 lever arms to cut, file, solder and drill
16 headblock ties to cut, glue and pre-drill 2 holes in each
8 shelves to cut, shape, and drill
8 machine screws to install at an awkward angle

32 very tiny wood screws to install

8 Bullfrogs to punch-out, trim, glue and modify 

16 screws & washers to install upside down to hold the Bullfrogs

8 outer R/C tubes to cut to length

8 inner R/C rods to cut to length

8 throw rods (hardened music wire) to test for length, remove, cut, and reinstall

16 threaded rods to cut to length

16 clevises to thread on to the R/C rods

16 oversized mounting holes to drill for shelves

16 screws and washers to install the shelves

8 holes to precisely locate and drill for the R/C tubes

8 switch stand targets to adjust

This does not include the addition of a lock for each switch stand (more on this later).

Does this list appear daunting? Well, it is and it isn't. Each bite-sized task can be done and set aside until final assembly. There's no complete sequence that you have to start and finish all in one go. These sorts of sub-tasks can be done when you've got 15 minutes or 1/2 hour to spare.

But, if you had 20 or 50 or 100 turnouts, the amount of time required goes through the roof. And this is just the turnouts. Never mind the rails that links them all together, the roadbed, the ties, the benchwork and all the scenery and buildings to flesh out this miniature world. Dream wisely.

Now I'm not trying to dissuade people from building large layouts; just trying to encourage some critical thought and planning before taking the big plunge. If you have the time and attention to devote to a large project, by all means undertake it and reap the long-term rewards of your efforts.

"Wait!" You say "I'm building my layout using Kato Unitrack with built-in turnout motors! I don't need to worry about all this stuff!". And, of course, you are (mostly) correct. Using pre-made items greatly speeds the process and reduces (modelling) labour. But you are trading time for money. If this is acceptable to you and suits your plans and budget, then go for it. There's a massive appeal to getting the trains running TODAY instead of trudging through the slough of despond to reach each milestone.

And now, back to the fettling and fitting.

why why why

The question of why we were implementing this particular style of turnout control was recently asked. After all, it looks like way more work than simply sticking the control cable through the fascia and gluing on a knob or handle to move the Bullfrog, and it doesn't do a more efficient or reliable job of throwing the points.

There are a few really good reasons:
1) Moving the turnout points now feels a lot more like "the real thing". Our experience on the Maine Narrow Gauge RR gave us a taste of how the real railroads did things in the days of steam, and we've been looking for ways to reproduce that sense in the model realm.
2) It adds just a little more time to the operation of setting a turnout. This layout only has 8 turnouts total, so an op session using Peco solenoids or simple buttons would make things go a lot faster. We're trying to slow down and enjoy the process of running trains in a prototypical manner.
3) We would like to implement a feature that would prevent the turnout from being thrown without the extra unlocking step that a real brakeman would have to perform. Again, this is in aid of reproducing the sense of doing things like the prototype did, and slowing down the pace of operations.

Right now I've got all the parts cut up and ready for their secondary operations (drilling, sanding, soldering as required). The plan is to complete the assemblies and start installing them this week.

stand up

Some measurable success in the prototype department. The first switch stand assembly worked as hoped, with just the right amount of resistance to give a sensation of doing "work" when throwing the points.

See the whole post at -> Port Rowan in 1:64 - Switch Control Concept

clearance, Clarence

Can't seem to create much slip between two pieces of K&S brass tubing. Just too close in fit. Even spun the smaller one inside the larger one with a shot of Brasso using a cordless drill to see if I could lap some gap into the assembly. It moves slightly more freely, but not as much as I'd like.

Now, had I wanted a tight fit without fasteners or adhesives, no amount of mucking about would have produced it.

This is in pursuit of a slightly different turnout control for a layout project. The stands are from Sunset Valley, and they will actuate a FastTracks Bullfrog under the points. The Bullfrog has it's detent spring removed, and the two devices will be connected together using Sullivan R/C aircraft cables. The SV switch stands operate just like the real thing, and are sized for use with garden railway equipment.

new SIG

A new, NMRA affiliated Special Interest Group has been formed. It is the S Scale SIG, and can be found at http://sscale.org/. The executive has already created a nice website and forum for discussion of "scale" related, as opposed to "gauge" related (American Flyer, et al), topics in 1:64.

The site is also intended to become a directory of all available equipment and material for S scale, and will electronically publish a SIG newsletter.

Kirlin Scale Models

Had a very good conversation with Dan Kirlin on last Sunday afternoon. Among other things, we discussed efficient workshop design, layout planning, modification of brass models, DCC decoder installation, the relative merits of DCC manufacturer's offerings, Lenz' RailCom feature, various operation sequences for production lathes, restoration of vintage tools, the fear of brass (Orichalcuphobia?), work shop safety, alternate methods for threading for those machines without leadscrews, and 3-phase AC power in residental applications.

Dan has manufactured many HO scale detail parts and models, and builds models of his own in S scale. He is an authorised Soundtraxx installer and a Lenz DCC dealer. He is also a skilled machinist, fabricator, & custom painter, and has performed many repowering jobs on brass models.

narrowly escaping

A conflict has arisen that will prevent me from attending the Schomberg, Ontario Narrow Gauge Madness Show this year. Turns out it's the same weekend as Supertrain in Calgary, Alberta. I can't be in both places at once, and I had planned to make the trip to Calgary this year for a long overdue visit to a very good friend.

That said, there are several other shows coming up that I hope to at least drop in and look around:

• Copetown (currently being run by the Canadian Association of Railway Modellers)
• K-W Woodworking Show (at Bingemans, helping at the machine tool display rather than trains)
• Ottawa Train Expo (new, and hopefully vibrant)
• Port Hope (a small show but outside my normal area)
• Picton (probably helping out with Dad's 0-16.5 layout)
• Whitby (instead of the Toronto Christmas Train Show)

mystery multiplication

Earlier this year I set out to clear some space on the book shelves. Duplicates & the merely unwanted were to be done away with. This newly freed space would allow for the excavation of boxes containing my long buried books. There were more books than free space, I'm afraid.

The first batch was easy; about 3 cubic feet of duplicate Model Railroader & Railroad Model Craftsman magazines, mostly from the 50/60/70's timeframe. They went to a single mum's 12 year old railroader. Apparently the first thing he did was start sorting them into the correct date order...

The next batch was a whopper; about 10 cubic feet of MR, RMC, Model Railroading and Railmodel Journal. With the pending release of the MR DVD set, there was no need to keep the paper versions on-hand despite a preference for the tactile experience of reading the real thing. These all went to a young pastor who's just starting out in the hobby. I thought this was the last of them.

Early last week a pile of boxes were shuffled to reveal another 3 cubic feet of MR from the 80/90's time frame. These went off to the first young recipient, who by now has finished perusing the older issues and passed quite a number of them on to an 80 year old modeller who has a decided preference for the older columnists and authors.

Just today, a final pile of boxes was moved to reveal yet another cache of MR, RMC, and miscellaneous railroad titles. Oddly enough, I have no real recollection of these arriving on site. Some of the RMCs have taken residence on the shelf to fill in the gaps, but the rest are going to have to go. 4 more cubic feet; 20 in total.

I am not about to calculate the remaining (wanted) publication's space consumption; questions you don't want to hear the answers to shouldn't be asked...

a new blog

The S Scale Workshop, returning victorious from their recent trip to Milwaukee's Trainfest, thought it would be nice to have a group blog to collect progress reports, share information, make product announcements and so on. I've set one up here -
http://sscaleworkshop.blogspot.com/
- so please drop in and say hello if you get the chance...

re musings

It may be obvious to some that the subject of modular, portable layouts weighs heavily on my mind.

I have been posting my thoughts on the matter and these, while not definitive or exhaustive, represent the lessons learned from a few years of effort (and numerous observations) in the field.

The most recent posting are, as yet, very rough. I wanted to get them out depsite incompleteness. Sometimes it helps to actually see what one is thinking about in order to better organise thoughts.

I will be editing these entries to add more content, links, and (hopefully) diagrams to clarify and expand on various points.

the incredible shrinking train show

The 2-day Toronto Christmas Train Show has diminished in size yet again. Fewer vendors, fewer exhibitors, and fewer attendees. The admission price remains high, and the on-site food remains poor value for money.

The organisers saw fit to call it quits at 4:00 PM today, an hour earlier than usual. No reason was given.

At least one vendor was overheard to say, 'if this year is worse than last, it's my last show here'. Not a good sign.

Due to overlapping schedules this weekend, for once I wasn't present for assembly and will not be there for tear-down of the layout. I managed to make enough time to operate (to allow for a break for the other guys) and share a meal with the crew today. I enjoyed the partial day out with my friends very much, but the meager offerings and reduced overall footprint this year is the least inspiring yet.

With the recent demise of the CHRA Spring Train Show, this is the last big event left in the area. No attraction sets it off from other shows. Little or no promotion seems to be done to encourage attendance. There is no incentive for exhibitors to continue their efforts. What is there to tempt any but the die-hards?

If this is the Christmas Show, where is Santa? Ah yes, he's off at his parade downtown. Perhaps this show could be better timed to ensure his availability? Maybe his people could contact the show people and make suitable arrangements...

Why so few vendors, exhibitors and attendees? It's a good bet that half of the candidates were at the other end of the city, visiting the 2-day Whitby Train Show which, for some bizarre and unfathomable reason, is scheduled to occur on the same weekend for the 3rd or 4th year in a row. How this benefits either event is entirely beyond me.

I greatly doubt that anyone will mourn the ultimate loss of this particular show; it has virtually ceased to serve a useful or constructive purpose. A shame, really. Most of the locals used to look forward to this annual event.

modular musings, part 3 (electrical)

If you can't get the control signals or power to the locomotives, all the mechanical construction effort is for nought. I will discuss electrical aspects with DCC in mind.

You need to have robust connectors, able to manage the high current draws:
i.e. Anderson, Cinch-Jones, trailer...
Each have their beneifts and drawbacks. Any one of them can be "bad" if they are not used properly.

What about power districts? Modern sound equipped locos can draw significant amounts of power, and having a short at one end of the modular layout should not disrupt activity at the other end.
- maximum track buss length for each booster should be less than 50'

Employ 'unique' connectors at the interfaces to prevent mix-ups. Throttle buss, track buss, and accessory power buss should NOT be able to be connected to each other. Throttle buss cabling is usually something like a Telco RJ12, so that's not too difficult to keep apart. However, you must bear in mind that there are 'straight through' and 'crossover' versions of typical Telco and Datacom cables - beware mixing them in a daisy-chain!

http://www.tonystrains.com/technews/utp.htm
http://www.vif.com/users/r-rhurlbut/On30-Modules/GM/03.pdf

If you choose to use something like an Anderson Powerpoles for both the track and accessory wiring  harnesses, ensure that you use different dovetailed plug arrangements for each.

Hermaphrodite connections saves 1/2 your material costs for electrical hardware, and is especially useful in Free-mo 180° end-for-end flip situation.

Make troubleshooting provisions from the beginning. Nothing takes more time than tracing an electrical  fault. Employing quick disconnects, terminal blocks, and nicely dressed colour coded wiring will help but remember that each break in the wire (for a connector, plug or whatever) is another potential point of failure. Also, DO NOT make something that only one person can fix, and DO NOT rely on proprietary "gizmo" solutions.

- buzzer box
Radio Shack buzzer + 2 alligator leads for track laying
see "Testing" section of http://www.wiringfordcc.com/track.htm

- buss run AWG
Heavy, stranded, Landscape wire (designed for outdoor use, thick insulation, high amp/low volt)

- track buss taps
3M IDC Suitcase connectors,
Telegraphers "tap" slice (aka Western Union joint in some circles)

- track feeders AWG
light, short (less than 6"), solid

Keep accessory power draws OFF the DCC buss! DCC is for loco power & layout communication only! If you're wondering why you loco is behaving erratically, maybe you should disconnect the 'welding flicker' and 'telegraph sounder' from your track buss. Electrical noise coupled-in to the command signals is BAD. The decoders determine what to do through edge-detection in the DCC signal. Don't add to the noise by tacking on a bunch of animated elements. A DC or AC wall-wart adaptor, or an old PC power supply (with PWRGOOD mod) will run all your online accessories.

- Loconet buss termination
A properly sized resistor at the end of the track buss will help reduce or eliminate ringing & overshoot of the DCC signal. Early Tsunami decoders were susceptible to overvoltage/spikes, causing premature failure in some cases. Spikes can hit over 22V on a DCC system set for 16V output.

- communication buss
With the advent of full-duplex radio, it may be that you don't need this on the layout. However, there is no need for the expense of radio throttles at yard locations. Adding a few plug-in throttle jacks won't hurt, and may help to reduce radio interference at larger shows.

If you are going to add throttle jacks to your modules, put two at opposite diagonal corners of the module set. This ensures that, whatever the orientation, there are jacks at even spacings around the layout. You won't have far to move if you need one.

- DCC vs DC
will depend on # of simultaneous locos & operators

- getting power to the layout
anti-trip mats to run power cable through, do not daisy chain extension cords, multi-tap AC cords

- turnout power
local adaptors, low volt AC buss, low volt DC buss, Tortoises vs solenoids (CD, SwitchWitch or Circuitron), servos (TamValley, AneModel)

- turnout control
DCC throttles, momentary buttons, toggles, computer, hand thrown, Pete's panel

- cables
making your own, 3-pair telco, x-over vs straight through, proper crimping tools

- test equip
RRAMp meter, Telco cable tester, hooking up UP5 LEDs, buzzer box, Digitrax LT1

sites for further study:

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_termination

Circuitron "Snapper" cap-discharge solenoid driver:
http://www.circuitron.com/index_files/Tortoise.htm

Tractronics "SwitchWitch" stall motor driver:
http://users.rcn.com/weyand/tractronics/articles/articles.htm

RRAmp meter for DCC testing:
http://www.tonystrains.com/technews/rrampmeter.htm

series 302 Cinch connectors:
http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cinch/P-302H-CCT/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvlX3nhDDO4ACp%252b9pCER64wSkfV%2Fj%2FSjMo%3D

Anderson Powerpole connectors & accessories:
http://www.powerwerx.com/

R/C servomotor controllers for turnouts:
http://www.tamvalleydepot.com/
http://www.anemodel.com/product.html

IDC Scotchlok connectors:
http://tinyurl.com/bwrr4rw

Misc:
http://www.saskschools.ca/curr_content/paasurvey/elec/lesson5/lesson5.html
http://www.amhobby.com/products/tech/generic/wire_sizes.html
http://zone.ni.com/devzone/cda/tut/p/id/3073
http://www.dccwiki.com/Wire_sizes_and_spacing

modular musings, part 2 (mechanicals)

The enemy is variation. Avoid dimensional softwood lumber for portable applications; continual changes in temperature and humidity wreak havoc with it. You may be well served to seal any wood to limit the effects of moisture (something like sanding sealer or shellac, perhaps); beware of acrylic coatings, the painted surfaces can stick to each other after being clamped together.

Goals are fast and repeatable setup, and optimal strength-to-weight ratio. Heading straight to "lightweight" can lead to fragile construction. It won't matter if it's light if the first time you clamp it to another module the endplates flex or rip right off, or you drop it and it turns into a pile of kindling.

Track expansion. Attach rails firmly above the interface (soldered to PCB tie plate or brass screws), and allow for rail gaps somehwere inside the MODULE confines.

PC board tie plates (Free-mo)
http://www.bnm-hobbies.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_21&products_id=19

Thought points:
- (Simon's) profile blocks to ensure consistent rail height at each joint.
- A single socket directly below the main line. Fit pin as needed to align to next section or module.
- Minimum number of tracks crossing any joint.
- Solid vertical member under the subroadbed itself to prevent sagging.
- Track must be 90°to both the horizontal and vertical planes at each INTERFACE.
(an INTERFACE differs from a SECTION JOINT, as a MODULE differs from a SECTION)
- Maple Leaf Mafia aluminium CNC frames

Avoid using porous material in the subroadbed, especially if you use the water soluble method of applying ballast or scenery near the track. Absorbed water tends to swell and distort the material. Using soap or alcohol to cut surface tension just makes it easier for the water to get in.

90° ends are critical everywhere. Setup & check your chop saw carefully. Verify the alignment with a proper try square and the cut-flip-match method of ensuring 90°. Cut matching sides and ends in pairs (at least). Mark what they are for. Clamp up and assemble frame pieces on a flat surface. Check 90° Horiz & Vert again. Get the frame dead square! Apply top and/or corner gussets. Route off edges of top with laminate trimmer bit (if it has a flat deck).

The primary mechanical goal is to ensure accurate track alignment across the joints. The secondary goal is an even fascia for the sake of appearance. Scenic continuity can be accomplished through application of loose material along the joint after assembly. Keep some spice tins or shaker bottles of each type of material handy in your toolbox for shows. Accuracy can be a problem if many people are making their own modules; everyone executes cutting and fitting tasks at their own skill level.

Low density self-adhesive foam weatherstrip can be used to take up the eventual (hopefully minimal) gapping at the joints. This stops loose scenic material placed on the joint for exhibition from falling through to the floor. Do not use thick or high density foam, you don't want to make the gap bigger (foam tape the perimiter of the end board to create even compression).

Pierre Oliver, master carpenter and owner of Elgin Car Shops, recommends cabinet grade plywood ripped to appropriate widths for all framing members. There are no voids or inclusions, and the multiple plies offer greater dimensional stability.

Creating the boards: Take the ripped plywood and make a frame. Add braces across the width. Stanley corner brackets or gussets should be applied to ensure squareness and add screw locations. Keep clamping & cable area at MODULE and SECTION joints clear.

Fastening the MODULES or SECTIONS together: Quik-Grip clamps. Try to clamp immediately below the track itself. C-clamps need more clearance for the lever arm. Loose bolts, washers & wing nuts - adds to part count and things that can go missing. T-nuts (or threaded inserts) and furniture bolts can strip out or seize at inopportune times.

quick-attach adjustable legs - single pipe with foot, interchangable, retained (bayonet, squeeze fit, spring pin)

http://home.online.no/~bjornrl/modulebuild.htm

Lee Valley dowel pins, leg feet:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=40145&cat=3,43586,43588,40145
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=41865&cat=3,40993,41283

patternmakers pins, etc.:
http://www.stationroadbaseboards.co.uk/menu_fittings.htm

make an accurate drilling jig, use drill bushings, store safely:
http://carrlane.com/catalog/index.cfm/27025071F0B221118070C1C512D020609090C0015482013180B041D1E173C3B285351435E

More thought points:
- dropping the egg crate example
- French cleat vs ledger board
- protect root of cleat (cover/scraper?)
- legs/supports
- tool-less height adjustments
- height adjustment at the top of the leg
- pads to protect floors (gymnasiums, churches, etc.)
- crowd barriers
- concrete post bases + ABS 'tees' with rope on a spindle (Jim)

a traumatic idea...

...for a portable exhibition layout.

It's always a bother to drag legs, skirting, and the boxed-up sections of your exhibition layout out, using a hand cart or simply lugging the dead weight of it all. Often you have to make two trips back and forth to the vehicle.

How about using an ambulance gurney frame as the basis of the layout? The rolling chassis would fold up as you shoved it into the back of your van or pickup, and unfold as you dragged it out. Then it would be easy to roll it from the parking lot up to the venue and into your assigned spot. Just lock the wheels and drop some skirting around the edge of the frame to cover the chassis.

The frame would support an approximately 24" x 72" layout. Plenty for an HO or OO shunting plan, or an N terminus or single industrial complex. You should even be able to make a nice O14 or O16.5 scene in this footprint.

But where would you buy a used gurney?

modular musings

Half of the S Scale Workshop crew are exhibiting at Milwaukee's TrainFest this weekend. The rest of us, being un-retired, are occupied with domestic chores and household tasks that are forcibly compressed (by dint of regular employment) into the weekends preceding the first major snowfall.

I am the group's primary nerd/geek. Knowing that I wouldn't be there to assist if the DCC system decided to throw a fit, I prepared some documentation for the guys to take with them to both simplify the setup and aid in troubleshooting. I also played a role in determining the electro-mechanical standards at the group's inception. After examining dozens of modular standards, we distilled what we considered (at the time) to be the best practises to follow in order to meet our needs. For the most part, we succeeded.

The absolute necessity of following proven methods for building a modular system cannot be overstated. Any flaw in a module will affect ALL of the others. "It ain't no fun if the trains don't run". Each module must meet (and preferably exceed) the minimum requirements in order for the whole system to work as intended.

No skimping on wiring or structure; no corner-cutting on fittings or fasteners. The pennies you save up front will be spent a hundred times over during the life of the project, and the aggravation caused will haunt operations to the bitter end. If you don't know how to do something that's been agreed to by the group, ask for help or have someone do that bit for you in exchange for you doing stuff they can't manage. Each person has a distinct skill set and no one can do everything perfectly. Share the load.

Things to consider to ensure consistency:
- settle on ONE coupler type, ONE turnout type, ONE turnout mechanism (Caboose Ind., Tortoise, Bullfrog, Bluepoint, etc), ONE wheelset; supplying spares is much easier if there aren't a mish-mash of choices
- buy components IN BULK and distribute as necessary; it saves money and time
- make JIGS to cut and drill components the same way each time; store these carefully between uses
- cut ALL of the module end plates at once; make a few extras for future expansion
- make ALL of the legs interchangeable; no "specials"
- use the PROPER crimping tool(s) for electrical connections; don't make do with generic pliers (or a hammer)*
- use ONE type of fastener for all of the legs, carrying cases, backdrops, section joints, etc; same head type and length**
- INSPECT & TEST each module as it is ready to put into service; don't simply assume it's been done right***

Things to consider to make life easier:
- DON'T design & build a module that you can't transport or erect safely
- make a CHECKLIST of everything you need to take; do not check off a box until you hold the item in your hand and put it in whatever carrying case is going to the venue
- TEST your power and DCC cables as part of preparing for a show
- bring SPARES of your fastener and cables
- TEST your module regularly; things get broken/come loose in transit

If you aren't having fun at the shows you attend with your modular group, you're doing something wrong. Figure out what it is and fix it. There's no sense in continuing the misery. If it's a systemic problem (like undersized wiring) schedule a group work session and get it ALL done at once. If it's a single bad turnout, a dip in the roadbed, a gauge problem, kinks in a curve or whatever - repair it before the next event or don't bring that section out to the show.

* Electrical problems, especially intermittent ones, are the MOST ANNOYING and time consuming problems to solve. You often can't see the fault because of insulation, backshells, or accessibility (under the deck or in the framing). Yes, some crimping tools are expensive, but it's a one-time cost that saves hours or days of future frustration. How much is your time worth? How much more do you value the enjoyment of your hobby time over that of the daily grind?

** Pierre Oliver, of Elgin Car Shops, is a Master Carpenter and theatrical set builder. If there is someone who knows more about constructing and moving robust sub-assemblies around, I haven't met them. This is his idea and I can find no fault with it. Hex head (Allen) furniture bolts are available (nearly) worldwide. Forget slot head and Phillips; too easy to slip or strip out. The Robertson head is superior, but isn't universally available.

*** Many people get bent out of shape when they are subjected to the indignity of a "quality check". TOUGH. Your components have to be "known good" in order to ensure a favourable experience for ALL of the participants. If you want to work with a group, put your primadonna attitude aside. You are not immune to errors, and you don't get to do something different (non-standard) just to show everyone how clever you are. It's a collective effort and you need to conform for the sake of consistency, reliability, ease of troubleshooting & repair, and the overall enjoyment of the group.